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OF THE PRESENT 



FASHIONS, 



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WITH THE 



SQUARE RULES 



VARIATIONS 

TO FIT THE HUMAN SHAPE. 

BY JAMES G. WILSON, 

TEACHER OF THE ART <>F CUTTING. 



January, 1827. 






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Southern District or New-York, ss. 

T g Be it remembered, that on the 11th day of January, A. D. 
' ' 1827, in the 51st year oi' the mdependence of the United States 
of America, James G. VVilson, of the said district, hath deposited in 
this office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as proprie- 
tor, in the words following, to wit: "Report of the Present Fashions, 
with the Square Rules and Variations to fii the Human Shape. By 
James G. VVilson, Teacher of the Art --f Cutting. ' In conformity to 
the Act of Congress of the United i»taite^ entitled "An Act for the 
encouragement of Leammg, by securing ihe c<jf.u;s of Maps, Charts, 
and Hooks, to the authors and proprietors of such Cnpus, during the 
time therein mentioned." And also an Act, entitled "An \ct, sup- 
plenu ntary to an Act, entitled an Act for the encourai:einent of Leal-D- 
ins', by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the au- 
thors and proprietors of such cooies, during the times therein men- 
tioned, and extending the benefits thereul ro the aris of designuii^, en- 
graving, and etching historical and other priiit-/*' 

JAMES DILL, V 
Clerk of the Southern District of 2^ ewYorri 



L^LJ^ ')(/)() 9 



PREFACE. 



This Report of the present Fashions is respect- 
fully presented to the trade by the subscriber, with 
the beUef that it will prove useful to them in many 
respects. It consists of twelve lithographic prints, 
similar to those published by E. Minister, of London; 
a rule sheet, on which are laid down various dia- 
grams, intended to explain and simplify the science 
of cutting, accompanied by appropriate rules, and 
concludes with some modifications and improve- 
ments of the reports as communicated by E. Minis- 
ter. It is believed that if the rule which is herein 
suggested for procuring the position and attitude in 
all cases is founded in truth, the whole science of cut- 
ting correctly is reduced within a very narrow com- 
pass, and may be understood in a short time. The 
Reports of Minister being only in the possession of 
a few, and unaccompanied with drafts or rules, I 
was induced to believe that I should perform an ac- 
ceptable service by improving, republishing, and 
combining with them a concise treatise on the art 
of cutting, which I have now the honor of present- 
ing to the trade. 

" J. G. WILSON. 

?■ 

* New-York, January, 1827. • 



/ 
-'C::^ 



J. G. W. begs leave to inform the trade, that this 
work will be published semi-annually, and will con- 
sist of a printed Report ; twelve elegantly designed 
and executed figures, superbly coloured ; a Rule sheet 
containing several diagrams, representing all the va- 
riations in cutting, and explained by appropriate 
Rules. The next Report will make its appearance 
immediately after the arrival of the London fashions. 
The work will be forwarded to subscribers without 
delay. It may also be had at the Book Store of A. 
T. Goodrich, 124 Broadway, New- York. Subscrip- 
tion price $10 per annum, payable in advance. Sin- 
gle copy $6 ; if coloured, 2 dollars advance on each 
copy. 



RULES, &c. 



The great desideratum in cutting a garment, is to 
establish some general rule for ascertaining the posi- 
sition of a man in all cases ; no method having hith- 
erto been adopted for meeting the variations which 
constantly occur, except the arbitrary judgment of 
the cutter, frequently incorrect and liable to error, 
from having no other guide but memory to aid him 
in his operations. In consequence of this, it often 
happens that a coat will bind one under the arm, 
wrinkle on the shoulders, swing off at the sides, hang 
back too much behind, and misfit in many other re^ 
spects. To obviate these difficulties, I recommend 
the following method of ascertaining the position of 
a man. Make a standard* of seven feet in length, 
and about one and a half inches thick, with slides 
attached to it ; let the standard be divided into inches 
and half inches, place it behind the man, touching 
the most prominent parts of the hip and shoulder : 
let the man stand easy, and tlie slide settle to the top 
of his head : If he is 68 inches high, then 17 inches 
will be one fourth of his length, which would be a 
correct length of the waist of the coat in all cases ; 
17 inches and one eighth of the breast would be the 
length of the skirt of the coat : then measure the dis- 

* Let there be attached to it two cross-pieces, at the points where it 
meets the hio and shoulder, liaving each a small screw to fasten them 
at ajiy given place ; and let the bottom of the standard be supported 
by proper feet. 

A2 



6 



tance from the standard to the back of the neck 
above the collar ; likewise measure to the hollow of 
the back. If he measures 2 1-2 inches at each })lace, 
then Rule first hereinafter laid down, will apply. If 
he measures five inches at the neck, and the shoulders 
set somewhat forward, the second Rule will apply. 
If he is 2 1-2 inches in the hollow of the back and 
1 1-2 at the neck, and his shoulders set well back, 
then tlie third Rule will give the proper instructions — 
and in this ratio for other variations. Measure a man 
as follows: 1st, his length — 2d, length of arm — 3d, 
round the breast — 4th round the waist ; the two last 
you measure under the coat. 

RULE I. 

If the man measures 34 inches round the breast, 
then 17 inches or one half of 34 would be cal- 
led the breast measure; and this is divided into 
halves, fourths, eiijhths, sixteenths, thirtyseconds 
and sixtyfourths : then it is again divided into thirds, 
sixths, twelfths, and twentyfourths. The back of 
the coat is rejn'esented on Rule Sheet by letter G, 
and in cutting it you will commence at the head of 
the cloth, or at the right hand end, as the wool runs 
to the left when placed on the counter before you. 
Lay on your square at the hip one eighth from the edge: 
then draw your line from 1 to 3 : lay on your meas- 
ure and dot it as i'ollows : from 1 to 2, one eighth — 
from 1 to 3, one third ; then lay on your square and 
draw your line from 3 to 5, one third — from 5 to 4, 
one o -iiiJ T tli — from 6 to 7, one eighth, givmii it a spring, 

7^ 



as represented on the diaa^ram ; the side seam is swept 
from 5 to 7 bj tlie length of the waist. 

OF THE FORE PART. 

(See dia^'am marked F on Rule Sheet.) Com- 
mence at the opposite side of the cloth from where 
you cut the back, then from 1 to 2, one sixth — from 

2 to 3, one third, lacking one 32d — from 3 to 4, one 
12tii — then the square is applied at 1,2, 3 and 4, and 
the straight lines drawn across as represented, from 

3 to 5, one 24th — from 5 to 6, one third — from 6 to 7, 

one 24th — from (3 to 8, one half — from J to 21, on« ^ ^ 
third— from 21 to 1(1, one fl^th— from 9 to ID, one | | 
fourth — from 20 to 12, one sixth — from 12 to 13. one i^i ^ 
32d— from 13 to 16 one (ith— from 15 to 14, one c - 
hair — from 12 to 17, one ei<rhrh — from 14 to 13 is 71- :;2 
swept with the half of the breast ; the side seam is ^ o 
swept by the length of itself; the rounding part of ' ^ 
the breast is swept from 3 and 9. Sweep from 10 g J 
and 13, and this will give you the length of the lajjeile * • 
by adding 1-2 inch. Slope off the upper part of the 
skirt in front as represented by small dots, this will 
make the coat set much smoother over the front 
part of the hip. Draw your line from 21 to 12, and 
from thence to the bottom of the skirt, and this will 
give the exact spring. One fourth from the ia})elle 
seam, will give the front edge of the skirt; one third 
and one 24th gives the width of the bottom of the skirt. 
To get the size of the coat at the waist, lay on your 
measure from 1 j at the side seam to the front, taking 
off one eighth, and this will give tlie exact size round- 



*t>PER SIDE SLEEVE. 

(See diagram marked H.) From 1 to 2, one 16th 
— from 1 to 3^ one fourth — from 3 to 4, one 32d — 
from 4 to 6, one half — from 6 to 5, one third — from 
9 to 13, one third and one 12th — from 10 to 11, one 
eighth — from 10 to 1*2, one e^«Ji and one 24th — 
from 5 sweeps the top of the sleeve and gives the point 
in front for the under part of the sleeve ; the upper 
dotted line is raised to give more fullness over the 
shoulder, as the sleeves are cut very large and full. 
Under sleeve. From 2 to 8, one eighth— from 6 to 
7, one 24th — from 7 and 8 gives one half of the scye. 

RULE II. 

In cutting the back of a coat for a round shouldered 
man who measures 5 inches in at the neck, proceed 
as follows: (See diagram G.) From 1 to 3, one 
third and one 64th — from 3 to 5, one third and one 
64th — from 4 to 5, one eighth and one 64th. Cut 
the side seam a little straighter than is laid down 
in Rule first. If a man be very round on the shoul- 
ders so that he will measure 6 or 8 inches in at the 
neck, and his shoulders set well forward, then you 
cut the back rounding from figure one down the back 
a little below the scye-gorge. If his neck is very 
short and his shoulders set very much forward, then 
from 5 to 4, one eighth and one 24th — this will shor- 
ten the shoulder seam, and reduce the width of the 
shoulders. 



FORE PART. 

(See diagram F.) The distance being 5 inches 
as in Rule second, then from 3 to 4, one 12th and one 
64th — from 5 to 6, one third and one 32d — from 2 to 
18, one sixth and one 32d — from 21 to 10 add one 
32d. If the distance be 6 or 8 inches as above, then 
from 2 to 18, one sixth and one 24th, and drop the 
scye in the same proportion. In hollowing out the 
neck, jou will take out a little more than is laid down 
in the first Rule. If he measure 3 1-2 inches at the 
back, then add from 12 to 13, one 32d more than 
prescribed by Rule first. If a man is as large round 
the waist as round the breast, and measures 1 inch 
in at the back, then from 20 to 12, one eighth ; this 
will bring the point of the side seam — from 1 to 21, 
one 3d, lacking one 32d ; taking the distance in from 
20 to 12, one sixth, would give the proper spring ; 
from 12 to 16, one eighth ; in other respects proceed 
according to Rule first. 

RULE III. 

(Figure G.) If a man is very straight, his neck of 
an ordinary length, and his shoulders are set well back, 
then from 1 to 3, one third, lacking one 64th — from 3 
to 5, one third, lacking one 64th. When you cut the 
back, hollow it a little between the shoulders. 

FORE PART. 

(See Figure F.) From 2 to 3, one third, lacking 
one 24th — from 3 to 4, one 12th, lacking one 64th — 



10 



from 3 to 5, one 32d — from 5 to 6, one third, lack- 
ing one 32d — from 2 to 18, one sixth, lacking, one 
32d — from 10 to 11, one sixth and one 32d — from 9 to 
19, one eighth and one 24th — from 1 to 21, one third 
and one 32d — from 1 to 10, one third and one eighth, 
lacking one 32d. Sweep the side seam with the 
length of the waist. In cutting the sleeve, take it off 
a little more than usual from the shoulder seam to 
the centre of the under part. In other respects pro- 
ceed according to the directions laid down in Rule 
first. 

VEST— ('See Diagram P.) 

Measure from the neck joint behind where the 
shoulders and neck are connected, across the shoul- 
ders down in front for the length, then round the 
breast and waist. If the measure round the breast 
be 32 inches, then 16 inches will be the breast mea- 
sure. This is divided in the same manner as the 
coat measure. Commence as follows : Draw your 
line on the front edge of the cloth, from 1 to 2 one 

twelfth from 2 to 3 one fourth from 2 to 4 

one half — from 4 to 5 one eighth ; then draw 
the line from 5 to 3, from 3 to 6 one fourth, from 3 
to 7 one eighth, from 3 to 12 one fourth, from 7 to 8 
one half, from 11 to 9 one third, from 2 to 10 one 
third, from 10 to 11 one 24th; then lay on your 
measure at 7, taking off one eighth ; then proceed 
down to the length of the vest in front : from 3 to 13 
gives the length of the back, adding half an inch. 
Sweep at 2 from the lower point in front, and this 



IJ 



will give you tJie length of the side seam at 17 and the 
distance it is necessary to slope it oveithe hips. If a 
man is large and corpulent, bring out the point at 
the bottom to the front line ; bring up the neck to 10, 
and in that proportion for other variations. 

BACK OF A VEST — (See Diagram L.) 

From 1 to 2 one eighth — from 1 to 3 one third — 
from 3 to 4 one eighth. 

SHORT NECKED VEST — (See Figure U.) 

From 2 to 10, one fourth ; at 2 from 3 to 10 
sweeps the neck. 

TROWS r.RS. 

Measure as follows: From the hip bone to the 
crease of the thigh, from thence to the ankle bone; 
allow 3 inches at the top above the hip bone and 2 
at the bottom ; this gives the length. Then mea- 
sure round the waist, the thigh, and knee ; the 
knee measure will give the wi<lth of the bottom ; al- 
low 3 and a half inches at the knee, and 3 inches 
round the thigh, and the same in front at the top for 
the fulness: lei the under j^art project hali an inch 
beyond the upper part, and this will give the fore 
part ease and prevent the side seam fnuii swinging 
rouud in front. 8haj>e tlu.ni a^'fer the pattern on 
the Rule-sheet. (See Diagram A I.) 



12 

FROCK COAT AND SURTOUTS. 

For a Frock coat, measure round the breast and 
waist under the coat — measure for a surtout over the 
coat: cut the back and body the same as dress coats 
except the neck, which should be cut rather shorter; 
the neck of a double breasted surtout coat to be swept 
the same as a military coat, adding one inch and a 
half to its length. (See Fig. O.) To get the proper 
hang of a frock or surtout coat, proceed as follows : 
(See Fig. M.) From the front edge of the coat to 
figure 1 go in one 12th from 5 to 6 one third and 
one eighth; then draw your line on the front edge 
of the cloth, where you take out your skirt ; take the 
length of the skirt ; then lay on your fore part above 
the skirt, so that the point at figure I and 2 on 
the body, and figure 1 on the skirt, are in a per- 
fect line ; then touch at figure 8 on the body as far 
as it is cut straight from 2 to 3 ; then draw 
the line from 1, 2, and 4 on the skirt, as it is repre- 
sented by the diagram A H : from I to 2, one half 
the distance across the top of the skirt: from 4 to 3, 
one eighth, lacking one 32d ; by making this raise 
from 3 to 4, the skirt will hang in an elegant drapery 
over the hips. To get the spring, you will let the 
point at 4 on the body, and the point at 3 on the skirt 
touch, and the pf)int at 2 on the body touch the line 
between 1 and 2 on the skirt: then draw your line 
from 6 to 4, and so down the length of the skirt: 
from 7 sweeps the bottom of tlie skirt. Jn cutting 
the skirt, lay y( ur moaspre on as in cutting a dress 
coat, (Fig F,) from 12 to 16, one eighth : then lay 



13 



on your square parallel with the line drawn from 1 to 
7, 'See Figure JVl,) and if it brings the point in front 
above the square, or below it, then you will take off 
fr<»m or add to the skirt in front as much as it raises 
above or falls below the square ; this will give the 
proper spring in front. 

MILITARY COAT— (See Diagram N.) 

The back is cut like that of a dress coat, except 
the lower part, which is cut as represented on tne 
figure. 

THE FORE PART — (Figure O.) 

From 1 to 2 one 32d ; this sweeps the neck at the 
smnall circle : from 3 to 4 down tlie shoulder seam 
one third, sweeps the point in front at 5. 

GREAT COkT— (Figure X.) 

THE BACK. 

From 1 to 2 one sixth ; from 1 to 3 one third ; from 
3 to 4 one 24th ; from 4 to 6 one third ; from 6 to 5 
one eighth ; from 4 to 9 one sixth ; from 6 to 7 one 
32d ; from 6 to 8 one third; from 9 to 8 gives the 
spring of the coat. If a man is large round the 
waist, or very small, you will bring in the dotted line 
from 7 to 8, or carry it out, as the case may require. 

THE FORE PART — (See Figure W.) 

Draw a line on the front edge of the cloth, and the 
top line as represented Irom 2 to 4. From 1 to 2 
B 



14 



oije half; from 2 to 3 one third ; from 3 to 4 one 24th ; 
from 4 to 5 one eighth ; from 5 to G one third, lack- 
ing one 32d ; from 6 to 7 one 12th ; from 6 to 16 one 
third; from 5 to 10 orie sixth; from 10 to 1} one 
32d ; from 12 to 13 one sixth; from 12 to 14 one 
eighth; from 1 to 15 one fourth; from 6 to 8 one 
third and one 24th ; from 8 to 9 one 24th. If a man 
is slim round the waist, bring in the dotted line at 16, 
and if large, carry it out farther. 

TO CUT THE CAPE — ( Stc Diagram Y.) 

Lay in the back of the coat from the edge of the 
cloth one 12th from 3 to 4 ; one r2th from 5 to 4 ; 
one eighth at 4 sweeps the bottom of capes : at 5 
neck of coat ; at 6 neck of cape. This rule is sure 
to fit in ail cases. 

LADIES' HABITS AND PELISSES. 

In measuring a lady you will commence at the 
back of the neck, at the joint where the neck and 
shoulder are connected ; then down the back the 
length of the waist; from thence to the floor; then, 
from the place of beginning, measure across the 
shoulders to the centre of the breast ; from thence 
to the bottom of the breast ; from thence to the length 
of the body of the habit below the breast ; then 
down to the floor ; then round the waist and breast. 
The waist measure is divided the same as that of the 
coat, and the garment laid out by it instead of the 
breast measure. 



15 



In cutting the back, (See Diagram A C) from I 
to 2 one eighth ; from 1 to 3 one half; from 3 to 4 
one half lacking one 24th ; from 4 to 5 one eighth ; 
from 6 to 7 one eighth. 

FORE PART — (Figure A B.) 

From 1 to 2 one sixth and one 32d ; from 1 to 3 
one half; from 3 to 4 one fourth lacking one 32d ; 
from 4 to 5 one eighth ; from 5 to 6 one eighth ; from 
4 to 8 one fourth ; at 8 you place the seam of the 
sleeve ; at 5 sweeps the bottom of the scye ; from 2 
to 7 one eighth ; from 1 to 9 the waist measure ; from 
9 to 16 do. ; from 16 to 26 do. ; from 1 to 26 do. ; 
from 9 to 10 one 32d — this point sweeps the neck ; 
from 9 to 11 one fourth; from 11 to 12 one I2th; 
from 10 to 13 one fourth ; from 15 to 14 one 24th ; 
from 16 to 17 one third; from 17 to 18 one 24th; 
from 19 to 17 one 24th : from 17 to 20 one sixth. 
23, 21. and 24, are swept from 12- by the length of 
the measure that is taken at the centre and bottom 
of the breast, and the length of the body by taking 
off the width of the back. The sleeve is represent- 
ed by figure AD: A F and A E, the skirts of a ri- 
ding habit : A G, the collar. This rule is for a lady 
measuring 8 inches more round the breast than the 
waist. If the measure round the breast be greater 
or less than the above, then you take out more or 
less between IS and 19, as the case may be. The 
breast measure is used to get the distance across the 
breast, which is at 14 — therefore from 15 to 14 it 
will vary according to the size of the breast. 



REPORT. 



DRESS COATS. 

Colours agreeable to taste. Velvet Collars, short 
and broad ; the fall-down to lay quite flat on the stand- 
up, and to come to the seam — the collar pattern 
marked E on the Sheet of Rules. The lapelles ve- 
ry long; the shape is represented on Sheet of Rules 
by A ; they are made very long, and to turn nearly 
to the bottom. Six buttons at front, and six holes in 
lapelles ; buttons, fine wove to match, except blue, 
which are plain gilt. The skirts Ions: and broad, and 
to hang full at bottom ; side edges in the pleats ; 
cross flaps rather broad, as represented by B. Sleeves 
cut full upwards, and small from elbow to wrist, and 
gathered on the shoulders, so as to raise without wad- 
ding. Depth of cuff", 2 J^-4 inches when made up ; a 
short opening is left above the cuff*; one button on 
the cuff*, and one on the sleeve ; the corner of the 
cuff* cut off* diagonally as represented by figure I. 
The breast is not cut very full ; stout canvass to be 
put to the forepart ; the side seams are cut much on 
the curve, so as to give a narrow appearance at the 
small of the waist, and to spring a little at the bottom 
of the waist; the lapelles are cut to correspond in 
length with that of the waist behind ; the hip buttons 
B3 



18 



are placed a distance of 1-4 of the breast measure 
apart — raw edges. 

WAISTCOATS. 

Made with step collars ; represented on Rule Sheet 
by J ; collar represented by K ; bound by narrow 
galloon to match ; seven buttons in front ; made ve- 
ry long, and come to a point in front, and slope over 
the hips. Covered buttons generally used of the 
same cloth. 

PANTALOONS. 

Cut to fit tight from the knee to the ancle, and full 
in the thigh, with 3 buttons at bottom; the fall-down 
is cut diagonally ; width at top — 2 inches from the 
seam, three and three fourth inches at bottom ; nar- 
row welt, as repiesented on Figure 2. 

TROUSERS. 

Cut to reach the ancle bone ; large in the thigh ; 
generally full; pleated in front ; cut as represented by 
Rule Sheet. 

FROCK COATS. 

Most fashionable colours, green and olive, or light 
blue ; made single breasted, as represented in figures 
7 and 8 ; collar, black velvet, with small step of 1-2 
inch ; the fall-down quite flat to the stand-up. Col- 



19 



lar pattern represented by C. Length of neck, 1-2 
inch less than that of dress coats ; breast cut to fit 
close to the neck, and moderately easy at the fidl at 
the breast, with seven buttons in front. The sleeves 
and cuffs in all respects like those of dress coats; 
width of the back, and length of back-scye, and of 
the waist, are also same as dress coats ; skirts, two 
inches longer than dress coats, and very full, falhng 
in an elegant drapery over the hips. They have side 
fla|»s in the skirts behind, about 8 inches in length, 
and with a point at bottom, as shewn in figure 7; 
four buttons behind — two at top and two at bottom ; 
no cross flaps ; skirts lined with silk to match. 

DOUBLE BREASTED SURTOUT COATS. 

Colour, steel mixed, olive, and drab, of various 
shades, with cross flaps and pockets under ; cut as rep- 
resented on Fig. 6 and 10; collars shorter than the 
frock coats, but in all other respects similar to them ; 
collar represented by letter D ; lapelle for do. by let- 
ter P, and flap by Q. 

SINGLE BREASTED SURTOUTS. 

As represented by figure 5, without flaps, with 7 
buttons in front, very short neck, collar very broad, 
and to go close to the neck. Collar pattern repre- 
sented by letter D — -made in other respects the same 
as dress coats. 



20 

GREAT COATS. 

Cut as represented by W and X. Three capes, 
stand-up collar, 7 buttons in front, strap behind un- 
der the cape, with side flaps. 

RIDING DRESS. 

Coats. Colours, olive, brown, steel mixed, green, 
and olive; made as represented in figure 11. They 
button down the front to the waist ; 7 buttons in 
front of plain gilt or steel ; collar same as dress coat ; 
skirts 3 inches shorter than those of dress coats ; 
width of skirts at bottom, one third and one sixth of 
breast ; cross flaps, with pockets under. Width of 
back, length of neck, and of the back-scye, the same 
as dress coats. 

SHOOTING FROCKS. 

Made of drab Barragan. They have cross flaps 
at waist about 9 inches long and 3 1-2 inches in depth, 
large pockets under, and, at the breast, cross flaps 
2 1-4 inches deep, cut diagonally, with pockets un- 
der — the collar represented by letter C. The skirts 
two inches longer than those of the Riding Coat ; 
edges to meet in front ; made very full in the skirts ; 
8 buttons in front, usually of pearl, of about 1 1-2 
inches diameter. Width of back, length of neck, 
waist, and back scye, the same as Dress Coat — rep- 
resented on figure 12. 



21 

SHOOTING BREECHES. 

They are made very full in the thigh, aud tight at 
the knee, with four buttons plain convex gilt ; leather 
strings. They are worn rather short at the knees, 
the gaiters coming high up ; they are of light drab, 
white or buff Manchester cord ; long gaiters — these 
are universally of tan-leather. 

YOUNG GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. 

Jackets — single breasted ; three rows of buttons, 
plain gilt ; round cuff, hollowed at bottom, to come 
to a point in front and behind ; buttons placed about 
one inch apart. 

Trowsers — quite plain about the waist, anel loose 
all the way down to the bottom. See figure 9. 

CHILDREN'S DRESS. 

Spanish dresses are much worn as a first dress ; 
they are made as follows : — the body is cut separate 
from the frock or skirt, to fit similar to a skeleton 
jacket, the sleeves cut shapely to the arm, full on the 
top, short back scye, narrow at top of back and bot- 
tom of waist, the waist is made moderately long, the 
width of the back, across the shoulders, half an inch 
more than one third of the breast ; the length of back 
scye and width at top and bottom of the back, one 
twelfth of the bigness of breast ; it is cut wide on the 
shoulders, the neck close up to the gorge, with a lit- 
tle stand-up collar cut hollowed at the sewing-on 



23 



part, to admit of the top collar standing" off from tlie 
neck; the collar is completely hid by the frill or shirt 
collar, wMch is made to fall on the shoulders ; 3 rows 
of silk net ball buttons. The jacket is cut longer 
than the length of Avaist to admit of the trousers but- 
toning round the jacket, about three inches lower 
than where the length of waist shapes to ; the trou- 
sers rather easy from the top of thiffh to the bottom, 
plain at top; they are closed up the fall-down seam, 
except the necessary opening at the crutch ; the seat 
seam is left open from the top about six inches down, 
to give sufficient ease to admit of the letting down of 
the trousers ; the frock or skirt part is made entirely 
separate from the jacket, and is merely a straight 
piece of cloth, cut round to the top, to give sufficient 
fulness on the hips and nouild the bottom of skirt ; it 
is made sufficiently wide to admit of its being fulled 
or gathered behind, within the space at the waist 
from side-seam to side-seam ; the edges of the skirt 
meet at front at the waist, and open a Uttle at the bot- 
tom ; the top of the skirt is seamed to the belt, which 
is about 1 1-2 inch wide, and to buckle at front. The 
colour is blue, of a light shade ; the top edge of the 
belt is sometimes stitched to the body of the jacket. 
within 2 inches of the front edge* 

SKELETON DRESSES. 

Jackets — made with three rows of buttons, small 
plain gilt balls; narrow stand-up collar to run round at 
front. Trousers to button on the jacket ; colour 
mostly worn, blue, of light shade. 



m 

LADIES' PELISSES. 

The fashionable make of Pelisses is as shown oil 
fi^iiire 4. The most fashionable colours are the Ma* 
roon and Green. They are made as follows: the 
waist very Ion«^ ; the front of the bo<lj is made to fas* 
ten with hooks and eyes; the collar is as pattern 
marked A G. The sleeves are made very large up- 
wards, having' a great degree of fulness ; gathered on 
the shoulders; and rather close from the elbow to the 
hand. The width of back across the shoulders, is 
half an inch m(jre than one third of the breast. 
Length of the back scye 1 1-2 inch ; width at top of 
back and at the waist, 2 inches. The side seams are 
cut considerably on the curve, and the shoulder 
seams straight. The skirts are cut hmg, to reach to 
the top of the foot, and very full ; gathered at the 
waist behind, within the space of 4 inches. These 
Pelisses are quite plain, having neither buttons nor 
braid of any description. Fur is now universally 
adopted. The furs adopted are Grey Squirrel, back 
of Chmchdli. They are worn on the collar, cuff, 
down the front edges of the skirts, and a flounce 
round the bottom. The depth of the lur on the cuff 
is 3 inches, and on the front edges of skirt 2 inciies ; 
Tl he flounce is six inches deep. 

Silk Pelisses are now as much or more worn than 
cloth. Some of them are made full at ihe liont, irom 
the point of the bosom to the waisi, and conunue 
down the skirts, sHUilar to the LmUics' tilouse D; ess- 
es. The left .-kirt ol others is made to wrap (;ver 
about five inches. Colours same as Cloth Pelisses. 



S4 

LADIES' CLOAKS. 

These Cloaks are jjenerally worn : they are made 
long, to within five inches of the ground; the back 
breadth is cut the full width of the cloth, top and 
bottom; the front breadth at the neck is cut 9 inches 
in width across the top, the width at bottom 25 inch- 
es ; they have arm-holes left in the side seam, which 
are cut at about 1 1 inches distance from the top of 
cloak, the length of arm-hole is about 10 inches; 
they have a welt at the arm-hole about I 1-2 inch in 
breadth, which is seamed on the hind breadth, and 
the ends tacked on the front breadth. These cloaks 
are frequently trimmed round the edges and arm- 
holes with Chinchili or grey squirrel back fur, about 
4 inches wide, though some are made plain ; they 
have nearly all a broad flounce of fur round the bot- 
tom ; the neck is gathered in to the length required 
for the collar; the collar is fastend at front, with a 
small silk girdle ; the cloak is either lined with white 
silk serge or sarcenet, or the same to match. The 
colours Crimson or Maroon. These cloaks are made 
to draw with a sliding string, about 10 mches from 
the centre of the back ; they are generally made with 
two capes.